At long last, after days
of muckin’ about the city, trollopin’ from bus to taxi, I ‘ave made it to the
skolliwad where I will be studyin’. As I approached dis towerin’ box of o’
buildin’, I shriveled up in anticipation of what wus ta come. Me eyes squinted
in the blindin’ sunlight. The heat was blisterin’. Sweat dripped from me back
down to me asscr—
WH-HO-HO, let’s stop riiiiight
there, Elizabeth.
Sorry, guys; apparently
I’m John Cleese now. Anyhow, yes: I’ve arrived in Blagoevgrad.
Thank God.
Over
the last couple of days, I was exposed to cultural realities that I would have
rather lived blissfully without observing (okay, that’s a lie, but still.
YIKES)
Before I commence my
wondrous tale, however, let’s pick up from where I left off in my last blog
post, shall we? If you didn’t read it, um…why do you exist, again? Just
kidding. But seriously, go read it. If you’re a lazy motherfucker like myself,
allow me to mise en scène:
INT. ROOM IN AUNT’S APARTMENT - DAY
ENTER ELIZABETH. SHE SITS DOWN ON THE BED, GAZING DREAMILY OUT AT THE SOFIA SKYLINE, AND THE SETTING SUN. SHE OPENS HER LAPTOP. SHE WRITES. SHE SNICKERS TO HERSELF, APPARENTLY FINDING HERSELF AMUSING. WHAT A TWA—
Okayyyy, fast-forwarding
to the next day!
Ahem.
After a night of
inadequate sleep due to barking dogs, screaming children, and whinnying horses,
I awoke sickly and frail. If I thought this was the low of my day, SURPRISE,
MOTHAFUCKA.
I was wrong.
The downward spiral of
profanity began at the onset of the journey to meet my cousin Venko downtown.
At about one o’ clock in the afternoon, my mother and I departed for the subway
in Lyulin. However, this required us to wait for a bus that would transport us
there.
Lingering near my mother
and me at the bus stop was an elderly woman dressed in a bedazzled headband, a
loose shirt and a long skirt that flowed down to her cracked feet. After
hopping from foot to foot for a few moments, she finally hiked up her skirt and
darted across the street, only to drop her panties and embrace her inner Bear
Grylls. Yup, that’s right.
SHE TOOK A PISS. IN
PUBLIC.
I stared. I mean, only
for a moment. Because watching strangers pee is weird. (cough, cough)
After shaking herself
out, she shambled back across the road to rejoin us, and I was no longer
capable of eye contact. Or words, for that matter.*
*Unfortunately, due to
the scarcity of free public bathrooms in Europe, and her likely state of
homelessness, she probably had no other choice. Yes, I realize this.
Hi, I don’t know you, but
I watched you sprinkle the greenery across the street. So, what cafés do you recommend that are near
Zapaden Park?
However, the distasteful
behavior was only magnified upon our arrival at the Lyulin station. After entering
the terminal, we were obligated to go through a rather sullen and coarse woman
who gestured rudely to the timetables after my mother asked her a simple question
about the schedule. Unbelievably, this was kindness compared to the vulgarity
she exhibited to the young woman behind us.
Following our trek
through the turnstiles to the seating area in the platform, our ears were
suddenly subjected to screeching originating from the window from which we had
just departed. A moment later, the woman behind us flew down the stairs, tears
bursting from her eyes. She spoke rapidly in Bulgarian and gestured wildly to
old man at her side, who was patting her arm kindly and attempting to calm her
in her state of anguish.
“What happened?” I asked
my mother, aghast at this public display of despair.
My mother listened for a
moment. Then her dark eyes widened.
“That young lady had a
dispute with the woman behind the counter. The man she’s with is blind, so she
needed to assist him through the turnstile. The woman ignored her and asked her
why she was with an older man. She called her a whore.”
My jaw literally dropped.
“WHAT?”
My mother shook her head,
speechless. I bristled in anger. If I was a porcupine, I would have been
shooting quills all over the fucking place.
“That’s HORRIBLE!” I
shrieked. “That would not be
tolerated in America.”
I paused, shocked at
myself. Never for a second did I think I would be alluring to my country in
such a patriotic manner, and certainly not within the first three days of my
stay in Bulgaria.
But I was disgusted.
Trembling with rage, I
continued rambling: “If I spoke Bulgarian, would I have words to say to HER.
That hag is disgrace to the
human race.”
The young woman was
watching us curiously, tears still streaming down her face.
“I understand,” she said
solemnly, and little appreciatively, I think.
My mother nodded. After a
moment she, too, began bawling.
“You’re right. If we were
in the United States, someone would have called the police,” she sniffed,
wiping her face.
My mother? The ultimate
pessimist, defending the land of the free and the brave?
Well, okay then. At least
we were united on that front.
We arrived in downtown
Sofia, and another unsavory fact was made apparent to me:
EVERYONE smokes.
Don’t get me wrong. I can
handle one person waving a cigarette in my face. I’m not a pussy. But when I
step outside (might I add, in heat equivalent to any of Satan’s private
orifices) into a cloud of fumes, it’s not exactly pleasurable to the nose. Or
eyes. Actually, to add to the list of undesirable attributes of Sofia, my
glazzies burn every time I skalliwag about the city; because the half-starving
horses, polluted air and vile old biddies don’t contribute to the real
horrorshow atmosphere already (there I go again).
Despite the unpleasantness
from the amassment of developing lung cancer, I enjoyed a pleasant afternoon at
the park with my mother and my cousin, and was able to forget the pitfalls of
Sofia in ginormous chocolate ice-cream cone and free WiFi.
I left the following day
for my final destination in Bulgaria, never having made it to the village of
Batoshevo. Instead, I’m bussing there the weekend after next, if I’m not
touring Thessaloniki with my classmates. However, before I blather on about
Blagoevgrad, I must first disclose to you the marvelous affair that took place
at the bus station, on my last day in Sofia.
Upon downing a tall glass
of beer (my first legal beer. That’s right, #LEGAL, betches), my mind unwound
itself, as minds do when under the influence, and a prodigious idea originated.
I realized my new objective:
The penis game. European
style.
How does one play the
penis game, European style? Well, old chap, allow me to bestow upon you the
genius of my creation. It’s quite simple, really. Whenever you find yourself in
a part of Europe where the English language is rarely spoken, you simply utter
“penis” casually in the presence of a stranger. If they don’t understand what
vermin has just groveled out of your mouth and took a diarrhea-y shit in the
once genital-free air around you (as well as in your morality) you’re in the
clear.
Now, you might be
wondering: Elizabeth, you scandalous goon, have you already partook in this dastardly,
swine-worthy debacle of a game?
Yup. And I’ve done it
everywhere (that’s what she said, snort giggle).
The two businessmen
standing next to us at the bus station? Yup.
The accommodating, bubbly
waitress at the restaurant down the street from our hotel in Blagoevgrad? You
betcha.
The friendly woman
waiting next to us in the notary’s office this afternoon? Check.
The trick is to be nonchalant
when you say it. Or to use it in a sentence. For example:
“So I was washing my
penis in the sink today, and the dispenser WAS OUT OF SOAP. Ugh. Can you
believe that?”
“That penis costs seven euros? Are you kidding me?”
“Mom, can you check my
penis? It looks it’s growing some kind of fungi in the crack.”
Hello, future employers.
Yes, I am capable of maturity. Please forget you ever read this. I was a naïve,
eighteen-year-old-girl, incapable of humor beyond that of a seventh grader.*
*Who's the profane and vulgar one now?
Anyhow, two hours later I
arrived in Blagoevgrad. After spending the night at a hotel, I underwent my
first day of orientation, where I met me new mates. This includes my Bulgarian
roommate, who shares my love of Lord of
the Rings, Star Wars, YouTube,
classic literature, history, and basically everything nerdy. She’s perf.
The only downside? The heat
is UNBEARABLE. A hundred degrees. Every day. And although the dorms themselves
are air conditioned, the dorm rooms ARE NOT. It’s a Wet Hot European Summer, minus Paul Rudd and Amy Poehler starring
as horny sixteen-year-old camp counselors. And talking vegetable cans. And
outlandish government conspiracies involving Ronald Reagan’s ‘Falcon,’ who is
supposedly Reagan’s agent but then actually turns about to be BFFs with the
camp’s cook. Whoops, spoilers.
Actually, nothing in the
show is relevant to my situation. I was just desperate to put a spin on the
name and come across as the slightest bit whimsical. I know, I failed
miserably. Excuse me while I crawl into my own asscrack.*
*PRIME EXAMPLE OF WHY YOU
SHOULD NOT WRITE WHEN YOU ARE SLEEP DEPRIVED.
To add to the extremity
of the situation, my red and blue nail polish not only leaked but melted due to
the intensity of the heat, thus resulting my makeup bag resembling a patriotic
shitfest. Every time I unzip my bag, I can’t resist belting “America the
Beautiful” as I weep over my now-lacquered facial appliances. It’s truly calamitous.
(pretentious sigh)
Nevertheless, in my brief
duration on campus, I have grown acutely self-conscious of my American dialect,
and my Americanness in general. The plainness of my speech contrasts sharply to
the suave and exotic European dialects of my fellow students. Whenever someone
introduces themselves to me, I find myself swooning at their sleek, creamy,
peanut-buttery, melted chocolatey, mashed potato-y—
Okay, I’m gonna myself
stop right there. Basically their speech is the equivalent to various delicious
food groups. Then they ask for my name and where I’m from, and it goes like
this:
“Hai, I’m ElizaBUTH. I’m
from AMURICA. WASHINGTOn sTaTEEEE.”
For some reason, this
triggers a switch in my classmates’ brains. Commence eyeballs popping out, ears
perking and tongues lolling.
“Whaaaattttt?”
There are a grand total
of six Americans my freshman class. Yup, you read that right. SIX. We’re
basically as rare as African-Americans in my hometown. I apologize; only people
hailing from Camas will understand that joke. I can make it more relevant. Like
as rare as humans in Antarctica.
Or Belgians in Africa.
JUST KIDDINGGGGG HAHAAAA
I’m going to hell.
But seriously Belgium,
that was REALLY fucked up. Also looking at you, Britain, France, Germany,
Spain, Portugal, etc., etc.*
*Not that America didn’t
massacre millions of natives. Heavy misanthrope sigh.
Anyhow, you might be
wondering how I’m handling this transition. Basically, my range of emotions
have included, but are not limited to: OMG YASSSSS let’s go clubbing and get
grinded on by highly intoxicated members of both sexes (true story, although
ahead of this timeline), to WHYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY to
FUCKYOUFUCKYOUFUCKYOU (in no particular order, although it can also go thusly).
Needless to say, it’s
been an emotional rollercoaster. But after my first day, I actually settled in
quite comfortably, and I can honestly say I feel more at home now. It’s
advantageous that my classmates are friendly, and my roommate is flippin’
AWESOME.
Okay, I have loads more
to discuss, but this blog post is getting lengthy, so I think I’ll wrap it up
for now. How would I summarize my escapade to Europe so far? …Interesting. In both positive and
negative respects. How would I characterize myself at the moment? A cross
between “Uptown Girl” by Billy Joel, and “Far From the Home I Love” from Fiddler on the Roof. Except the
‘backstreet guy’ in “Uptown Girl” is Europe. And so is the man in Hodel’s solo.
But I’m doing good. Really, I am. And I miss you all.
With that, I bid you
ADIEU!
(vanishes mysteriously)
…Still working on that
outro, guys.
HILARIOUS! Love your voice, E. Glad you love your roommate. Keep the posts coming! And photos?
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